KatiAniDIFAQs

FAQs on Kati-Ani, Deionizing Source Water Filtration

Arothron nigropunctatus (Bloch & Schneider 1801), the Blackspotted Puffer. Indo-Pacific. To thirteen inches long in the wild.

Kati Ani system 12/17/09
I thank you in advance for your assistance. I inherited all aquariums/equipment from my father recently including the Kati Ani System (small size). I found manuals for other items but I could not find any information or operating/recharging instructions for the Kati Ani unit. I know he was using the unit for softening water for S. American Discus and Dwarf Cichlids and was considering starting a few saltwater aquariums. Do you know where I could get a copy for the unit?? Email responses are fine.
I am familiar with freshwater community and African Cichlid aquariums but would like to continue with Amazonian aquariums and in the future a small reef system.
I enjoy your forum and hope someone will be able to assist me. My email address: XXXX
Donna Hughes
<Mmm, yes:
http://www.allensaquariums.com/AquaTechnic%20Kati%20Ani%20Instructions.pdf
And you might well want to read here re some basic input re use, recharge of these contactors:
http://www.manhattanreefs.com/forum/tank-threads/64853-my-215-upgrade-5.html
Do take a look at other means of "cleaning up" your source water... Likely Reverse Osmosis is your avenue of choice. There is much archived on WWM re such processes. Bob Fenner>

Converting RO/DI to just DI 10/24/06 Hi All, <Hello> I'm upgrading from a 90ga to a 600ga tank. I've been using a 4-stage RO/DI system for treating the water (1 micron sediment prefilter, 0.5 micron carbon prefilter, R/O, and finally a DI cartridge). I do a 10% water change weekly. <Good> The amount of waste water from the RO process has always bothered me; however, I wanted the best from my reef inhabitants. Now that I'm increasing the size of the tank, the waste water will be enormous. I know from reading this site that you're not fans of R/O for the same reason. <Personally I am a big fan.> I do want to be a good steward of the earth's resources. <Choice to be made here.> Can I just bypass the RO unit? Will this have a substantially negative impact water quality? <Yes> Should I also eliminate the DI cartridge and run the output through a two-stage Kati-Ani unit? I eager await your response. Michael <From an environmental point of view I believe the RO/DI unit is much better, at least in the area I live in that has lots of fresh water and processes waste water and returns it to the Great Lakes. I can tell you from experience that you will only get 20-25 gallons of quality water out of a DI only unit, then this unit has to go in the garbage, back to a land fill where it will sit for many years/decades. Find a use for the waste water from the RO unit, watering plants/garden, washing cloths, etc rather than through out plastic cylinders full of the same stuff that goes out with the waste water.> <Chris>

ANI 10 Ion Exchange 9/26/06 Dear Crew, <Gary> First Thank you for the hundreds (lost count) of great articles and advice I have read on your website. <Welcome> I was just given an ANI 10 Ion Exchange unit and had a few basic questions for you. I know this unit can be used to filter my tap water to make it 'reef ready' but I noticed on the description of the item, that it can filter 'saltwater'. Can this unit be used as a continuous filter directly hooked up to my reef tank to polish/filter the water? <Not really... I would NOT do this> Will the deionization process be detrimental to my livestock or biological process? <Too little flow, too much chance of making the water unsuitable...> I am currently using a RO filter system now, would it be beneficial to run the output water from my RO unit into this to double clean the water? <Likely no real need, but no detriment in doing so. Bob Fenner> Thank You, John 29gal Reef/fish tank Remora Pro skimmer 2x65w power compacts plenum sandbed mostly polyps and mushrooms 1 yellow tang, 1 clown, 1 coral banded shrimp no refugium <I would add one> Recharging Cation/Anion Filter Units - 08/04/06 I'm considering purchasing a Kati/Ani unit and have read through your FAQ's and articles. I understand Muriatic acid and lye are needed for recharging. Lewis Red Devil Lye was recently discontinued by its manufacturer. Lye is used in the manufacture of methamphetamine and recent government regulations now restrict its sale, along with the antihistamine, pseudoephedrine. So how would someone go about obtaining the necessary lye? Is there another alternative to lye? Should I consider another brand that doesn't require lye? <<Mmm, all good questions Cindy...but I won't waste your time speculating... I'm going to refer you to the Marine Depot Forum site (http://forum.marinedepot.com/Default.aspx). Both Anthony Calfo and Steven Pro have discussion threads there, and both are avid proponents/users of these specific water filters and will be able to give you sound advice/alternatives re these issues>> Cindy <<Regards, EricR>>

Kati/Ani Filter 02/12/06 Where can I purchase a Kati Ani unit. Any info? <www.premiumaquatics.com should have those. James (Salty Dog)> Thank you, Dwaine

Re: Kati/Ani Filter 2/14/06 Thank you for your reply I still cannot find any Kati Ani units these are German made. <Did you mean "find one that "is" German made? If so, you will have to google search for one. James (Salty Dog)> Dwaine <<"Anionic, Cationic Type". RMF>>

DIY "Kati-Ani" type 10/28/05 Hello <Hi there> I hope all are well <Yes, thanks> I am looking for information on building a DIY "Kati-Ani" type Deionization filter <A worthy project> I found the Spectra Pure website, Bulk resin. Any other companies that you would recommend for the resins? <Mmm, not w/o doing a bunch of research re... short answer, no> I plan on buying in the 1 gallon size. The water will be used for a reef tank. I have a few questions on the proper way to set it up. How many stages do I need? <... likely three or four... one to remove sanitizer/s, the anion, cation, and a mechanical...> Is 2 enough? When I read "mixed bed resin" is that the 2 resins mixed together. <Yes> On the resins the Kati & Ani is there any other resin I would need? <For what purpose/s?> Should I run the block carbon filter before or after the resin filter? <Before> Do you know of any websites that show how to build this type of DIY filter setup, or can you tell me what I need to do to build it? <Nope... you might peruse OzReef.org> Is there anything that needs to be done to the filtered water <Mmm, not off-hand, but I would store, aerate/circulate, heat it and test before using> before it is put into my tank for top off water? How do you know when it is time to change or recharge the resins? <Testing> Would a TDS meter work for this? <Could> Would fluidized sand filter work, change out sand for the resins or is there something better out there to use? <Could work... but likely other, clear contact chambers that are easier to "get into" are what you'd rather use> Bla Bla Bla <Black sheep, have you any wool...> Please point me in the right direction <This way> Thanks Ken-aka Shortbus <Welcome Bob Fenner, aka Dogfish>

Kati-Ani info, and water storage 9/13/05 Hello, I was searching your site on information on storing water softened by one of our "Reionator" systems, and found some threads on cation/anion exchange. That is exactly how our system works; it is a water conditioning system that utilizes a patented multi-resin bed (both cations and anions) that not only removes the hardness, but contaminants like chlorine, nitrates and sulfates to name a few. It is regenerated with potassium chloride so that the water is sodium-free. If any of your readers are interested in obtaining more information, they can email me at [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> or visit our website at www.alpinewatertech.com<http://www.alpinewatertech.com/>. The patent was obtained in 1987, and the Reionator is a revolutionary product worth investigating. We also sell a terrific 5-stage reverse osmosis system that has a pressure gauge, membrane flush, and designer chrome faucet. In our area we sell it for $259.00 including installation, but would drop-ship it to anyone to install themselves for $175.00. Back to my original concern...do you know about storing softened water? Any idea what the shelf life would be? Thank you very much <Water needs to be stored in a darkened area, and preferably cool. I would minimize any air space in the container, that is, fill it up to the brim and seal tightly. As far as shelf life, it depends on the coolness of the storage area and the purity of the water being stored. James (Salty Dog)>

Treating Tap 08/08/2005 Dear WWM Crew, <Guy> I want to start purifying my tap water before use. After reading the RO FAQs and other articles until bug-eyed, I would like to avoid RO because of the too much waste water issue and avoid mixed bed DI resins because of the inability to recharge issue. Based on the FAQ information, I plan to go with a sediment filter-carbon filter-two bed Kati/Ani DI system (assuming I can find that brand, Dr. Foster & Smith are only listing the Ani on the website and a preliminary Google search has yet to turn up another supplier), followed by aeration and heating. <Okay> My question is if the cation resin filter should come before the anion resin filter or vice versa or does it matter? <Mmm, depends to a small extent on what your source water has more of to remove, but basically no... does not matter. I do encourage you to look at the "Kold-Steril" PolyBioMarine technology if you think you might want to make a long/er term investment... Bob Fenner> Best regards, Guy - ANI Filtration - Crew, Thanks in advance for your help. I was perusing the site recently and saw some info on an ANI ion exchange unit. Thought it would be an excellent idea to purchase one. There was mention of using a carbon pre-filter with this unit. Me being the unhandy man that I am, please tell me how could hook up a carbon pre-filter to this unit. Once again thank you for all of your invaluable information and help. Mike <Really should be fairly simple. Both units will have an input and output side, with a threaded fitting. Using tubing and fittings of the appropriate size, you will connect your feed water to the input side of the carbon pre-filter, and the output side of that to the input side of the ANI unit. From there, you can plumb the output side of the ANI unit into a bucket or whatever you will use to store your water in. Doesn't need to be complicated or soldered copper. Simple vinyl tubing will do - all stuff that can be picked up at Home Depot. Cheers, J -- >

KATI/ANI Unit Woes Hello one and all- <Twice in one day! Back again, Ryan> I was looking you some advice from you fine people. I had recently purchased a Kati/Ani unit for my 125gal fowler(170gal total system). System has been running for 2 years. I have 2 MAG 12 pumps for circulating the water. For new water when I was using the deionizer) I add "Prime" chlorine remover, aerate, heat for a few days, then add salt then buffer if needed. I would check ph and alk. I have had dozens of snails in the tank for about a year and now they have almost all died over the past 2 months. Plus my xenia that had been growing like a weed just fell apart. Now the tank has turned into a huge Cyanobacteria farm. All I can think of that has changed is using the new Kati/Ani unit. The resin in the unit has only changed color about 1/3 of the way after running a hundred or so gallons thru it, so I don't think that the resins would be a problem. Plus I have a monitor on the water output. I am thinking maybe my process for treating the deionized water is flawed somehow and a ph or alkalinity swing has killed off the snails and xenia. Could you share with me how you would suggest preparing and testing it? <I have never used a KATI/ANI unit, but I found a great article about preparing water using one: http://www.pmas.org/pro/ credit due to Mr. Steven Pro, of course. His steps are detailed, efficient, and his success evident.> I have read before that using "Prime" chlorine remover can make some water tests inaccurate? Would it throw of my ph and alk tests? <Never heard this, perhaps the manufacturer can verify? Message boards like ReefCentral.com chemistry forum would be your best bet on this type of subject.> I also upgraded from a Berlin turbo skimmer to a Precision Marine Bullet 1. Easily get a cup a week of pretty dark skimmate. <Great> Are there any tips you might have for using a deionizer? I have switched back to good old tap water for now until I am sure what is going on. Not sure if this is even part of the problem. My guess is that I should stick with the deionized water because now it seems like it is getting worse. <I would change as little as possible...and do lots of small water changes until you get a handle on this.> Also- What color would a poly-filter turn if there were phosphates? When I use one it always turn brown pretty fast. <Poly filter color chart is on the back of the package...sorry bud but I'm at work! (Shh....)> I am poor at putting thoughts into words, sorry if this is e-mail wanders all over the place. <No worries. You'll get this under control, just keep eliminating possibilities and the result will be the cause.> Thanks for your time. Dennis

Kati Ani deionizers... DIY units 9/20/04 Anthony, I know you like the Kati & Ani units for water purification. <yep been using them for over 10 years> I am trying to locate a Kati & Ani 2 but am having no luck. Dr. Fosters only have the Kati 10 but have the Ani 2. I did a search on Google but couldn't find anyone else that sells the Kati & Ani units. Any ideas? Thanks Pat <no worries... better still is the bulk resin for DIY canisters or Kati Ani replacement. Spectra-pure sells them at: http://www.spectrapure.com/St_replac_p5.htm best of luck, Anthony>

Google, Google, Google till it hurts! Kati Ani dealer 11/9/04 Hello All!! <howdy> Anthony, in response to a deionization question yesterday you mentioned that you personally use the brand Kati Ani from Germany. Are you referring to Kati Ani generically or is that the actual brand name. I asked because I have seen many other recommendations on this product before but cannot find a distributor or a manufacturer's website. I believe it is made by AquaTech, but I cannot fine their website. If you have any info to point me in the right direction I would be quite appreciative. Thank you kindly, Corey <my apologies for the title to this e-mail, my friend... but I am rather frustrated today - feeling like an enabler - with friends/queries from folks with seemingly little effort to do a simple keyword search to help themselves <sigh>. To help you and illustrate a point... in response to your question, I simply went to the google search tool which is plastered all over our website and well known at large. I typed in "Kati Ani price" (three common words that would appear on a page with this product if it existed out there somewhere)... and the very first page that came up has a link to: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=4499&N=2004+22789 ironically... this merchant is also an advertiser. Our only advertiser on WWM at present: Drs Foster and Smith/LiveAquaria.com I'm sure there are other merchant of this product out there... google till it hurts, bro. Anthony :)>

Google searching/ Kati Ani 11/10/04 I sincerely apologize for your impending frustration at my question on a Kati Ani unit. The site (Dr.FosterSmith) that you recommended I had found before querying you. I did and do search my brains out on google. I have seen numerous units using Cation resin and Anion resins. That why I asked if you meant Kati Ani generically as a type of unit not a brand. I was just unsure which manufacturer you use and recommended. Again I am truly sorry for the perceived irritation and I am grateful and understanding of the work you and the crew put into the site <no apology needed, my friend. If any, its me being grumpy/frustrated with the instant gratification society we all live in :p On another day with less mail and more sleep, I would have been a much nicer fellow <G>... making jest or at least handling it with sarcasm :p Best of luck/life to you... and thank you for understanding, mate. Anthony>

- Deionization for Chemophobics - Dear Sir or Madam: I am looking or a water purification system for a 75-gallon reef aquarium. I like the fact that deionization (DI) units are less wasteful of water but I do not want to deal with the dangerous chemicals involved with recharging DI units. I plan to simply replace the resins when they are depleted. (1) For my situation, which is more advantageous: mixed-bed systems or separate KATI/ANI-type systems? <Think perhaps this is six of one, half a dozen of the other as they say... either system would provide filtered water. Individual cartridges of single resin types will last longer than a single cartridge of mixed resin.> (2) What type of prefiltration is required for DI units? <I would use both a particulate filter as well as a carbon filter - much like a two-stage RO unit without the RO. These prefilters will extend the life of the resin cartridges.> Thanks very much. Regards, Paul. <Cheers, J -- >

Kati/Ani de-ionizer 1/25/05 I'm very interested in these units since they've been highly recommended and I'm not a fan of wasting water with RO. I searched through all the forums on the net and all the FAQs on this site and I've even called Dr. Fosters and Smith (since they seem to be the only e-tailer carrying them) but I'm not confident with the lack of information or answers I've received. So on to the experts (I hope I'm not wasting your time). <no worries> First question is, if I were to get the KATI 10 and ANI 10 (internal volume: about 785 cubic inches apiece) and use a carbon block pre-filter, about how long do you think the resins would last before regeneration is needed? <impossible to say as it is dependant on the quality of your source water> Also, am I safe in assuming that if I were to get the ANI 5 which has about half the volume, the resin would last half as long? <half as long before needing recharged, yes. Its juts a matter of volume. The quality of resin is the same though> I've heard of people who have chlorine/chloramines in their water first aerating it overnight and then running it through the DI units to lengthen resin life. When you were operating yours, did you do this or did you just go straight from the tap? <a carbon prefilter takes care of this more conveniently> I've read that anion units in general produce water that has a high Ph. If I run the KATI first and the ANI last, what would you suspect the Ph would be (i.e. does the ANI unit produce a consistent ph or is it totally dependent on the input water)? <regardless of pH it will be unstable as it is demineralized... and as such, at risk of crashing (acidic). It needs buffered> And last, I've read that you recommend this unit a number of times. However, I've never really heard why. Is it due to quality craftsmanship, quality resins, ease of use, or other reasons? <resin quality alone... the unit otherwise is awkward with tapered metric fittings> Thank you so much for the help with this and all the help that you have given others along the way. Your service is truly invaluable. Derek <with kind regards, Anthony>

Kati/Ani Deionizer and Chloramine - 8/21/03 hello one and all!! <howdy-do?> I confused myself a bit more in the FAQ section. I think I hit information overload and my brain shut down. <that's either a lot of information, or an invitation for a small brain joke <G>> I was hoping you could set me straight on a few things. I just purchased a Kati/Ani 2 set up from Dr Fosters & Smith <excellent... my fave/first choice for purification units. I have bough models 1, 2, 5 and 10 over the years. Excellent deionizers IMO> and was under the impression that this would give my quite pure water. <you are correct... better than most any RO> Then I saw conflicting info regarding the removal of chloramine. Do you know if chloramine is removed or not? <with DIs at large, it varies by resin type. Most all do though> Are there other things that it will not filter out that I should worry about? <on the contrary... the water will be ultra pure and need to be aerated and reconstituted (a little buffer is all)> Also - I have a few filter canisters from past projects and was thinking of putting them inline before the Kati/Ani unit. Maybe a sediment filter (we have a lot of water main breaks out here in Atlanta and the water can get quite dirty) and a .5 micron carbon block filter. Would these be beneficial at all? <very... please do> Would they extend the life of the resins? <quite> Thank you for your time and have a good weekend. <and to you as well, my friend. Anthony>

Kati Ani deionizer units 11/11/03 Hope all are well? <and you in kind, my friend> Anthony which of the Kati Ani unit did you buy & where can I find more info about them besides stern & foster also do you know who may sale them wholesale. <I have favored the "Kati Ani" brand for many years and purchased mine wholesale from a regional distributor in Maryland: Peter Thode at Gwynnbrook Farms - an old German discus breeder. I hope he is still around and in business (his son(s) were involved too). Nice folks> what does it cost to recharge units . <mere pennies per gallon with Muriatic acid and lye> One of your many friends in fish ROCKY <kind regards, Anthony>

RO, Kati/Ani Unit Good Evening Crew, I'll try to keep it brief this evening for ya'll. I've used RO water religiously since I set my 55 gallon tank up 2 years ago (FOWLR). However, I'm tired of the 30 minute drive that it takes to get to the LFS. Thinking about getting a Kati/Ani unit but can't find enough information about the two. <First off, go to www.WetWebMedia.com and type Kati Ani into the Google search engine. You should find plenty of information that way.> What's the difference, and do I need both? <You do not need a RO and a DI, but you do need both the Kati and the Ani portion of a deionizer.> Dr.'s F&S have a Kati 2 and Ani 2. Would this do? <Yep> R/O wastes way to much water and I don't want to be the wanker responsible for draining the local reservoir dry. Alright, one more thing, what kinda chemicals are used to regenerate the units? <Muriatic acid (HCl) and Lye (NaOH2) The last thing I need in my kitchen is a Meth lab. The one in the basement is more than enough (just kiddin'!). Thank you so much for your time, knowledge, and love for the hobby/lifestyle. Rob <You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Kati/Ani units Hi everybody- Would you happen to know the difference between the 3 size Kati/Ani units? <They are the same, just larger.> There is a 2, 5, and 10. <There is also a 1, just no longer available from Petwarehouse/Drs. Foster & Smith.> Is it just that the resins will last longer in the bigger ones? <Yes, longer between recharges.> If so, do you know an average on how long each size would last? <Depends exclusively on your water, but for reference I have a 2 size model and get easily over 200 gallons between recharges.> Or just a comparison between the three with the same quality water. <If theoretically the 1 would yield 100 gallons of pure water, the 2 would be good for 200, the 5 for 500 and so on.> I have a 125 FOWLR tank. Is there a size that you would recommend? <The bigger the better.> There is quite a price difference between the sizes. <The 5 should be 2.5 times the 2 and so forth.> Thank you in advance. Dennis <You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Re: Kati/Ani units Hello again- With the Kati/Ani units....what kind of business would I purchase the chemicals needed for recharging? <I get them at the hardware store and the grocery store.> Is it something that can be shipped or will I have to find it locally? <Locally is much easier.> My LFS only uses RO/DI and only sells the disposable deionizer cartridges and could not offer any advice. <The acid part is Muriatic acid, commonly sold at hardware stores for etching concrete. The base I use is Lewis Red Devil Lye. It is sold at the local grocery stores as a drain cleaner.> Thanks! Have a nice weekend! Dennis <And you do the same! -Steven Pro>

Water Purification Thanks for the advice regarding water purification. I'm still debating between KATI/ANI and an RO or RO/DI system. For freshwater fish, what treatment does the water need after each? <After all systems the water will need aerated, heated, and then reconstituted (buffered).> Obviously with the RO/DI, I'd need to use some sort of product to reconstitute the water (there seems to be a Kent product for freshwater?). <Many others, too.> What do you need to use with water produced using KATI/ANI or RO alone? <Many people simply use, say half and half, demineralized water to dechlorinated tapwater. It is best to use test kits to verify how much of each is needed to obtain the desired pH, hardness, conductivity, etc.> Thanks very much. -Ann <You are welcome. -Steven Pro>