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canister and live rock combo? 7/4/12 Re: Setting up an RO system, now reef
filtration types/approaches 1/31/12 125 gallon tank, reef set up,
circulation/filtration 12/7/11 Filtration for the Reef - A myriad of
choices: 12/8/2009 Refugium
7/10/09 "Filter Feeding Animals As Filters
(SW) - 07/08/09"/7/10/09 Reef Set up - the beginning
3/17/09 Re: I have a problem with my Reef Aquarium.....
-- 07/16/08 Thanks for your quick reply. I would like to point out
that my LFS seem to of pointed me in the wrong direction. <... the
onus is... upon you...> Please could you tell me what you would do
in my instance as in order to sort this mess out as quickly and
efficiently as my main interest is in the health of my fish. thank you
Phil. <Uhh... read where you were referred to? As the saying goes...
"if you think education is expensive, try ignorance"...
Educate yourself. BobF> Reef Filtration Rich, I read through Bob Fenner's book. In fact, that's why I'm emailing you guys! I love the book, it just has so much information that I'm having a hard time figuring out what's best for my reef tank. >>Gotcha Laura!<< I'm using a couple boxes of Eheim Substrat pro filter medium. Is that good to use in the sump above a carbon filter? >>If I remember correctly, the Eheim stuff is a biological medium, and you don't really need it if you have a bunch of 'live' rock or sand. Should I just stay with the sump, Substrat and modify the overflow to quiet it down? >>That sounds easiest, just remove the bio media. Remember the sump really is just a container of water that you can also keep stuff in. So if you can just find a tank that will fit under your main tank that is cheaper then the wet dry system, I say go for it. Or you can find a sump that isn't made as a wet try. The only way to quiet down the overflow is to modify yourself, or find someone to do it for you.<< What do you recommend I get for a really quiet skimmer? >>If you are going in sump, I like the Euro Reefs. They all will make some noise though.<< Also, I may not have enough room for the skimmer in the sump - should I modify things so that the pump is on the outside so that I can put the skimmer in the sump? >>That's a personal call. If it were me, and by moving the return pump I could then put the skimmer inside the sump I would - if my alternative were a hang on back. HOB skimmers are fine, but they tend not to be as strong as the other models.<< Laura WWM FAQ Crew, I forgot to thank you very much for your quick response and helpful information! >> Thanks! I forgot to mention that the guy who sold me the wet/dry suggested I go with a canister for my reef tank. I'm looking forward to your response on the best system to go with my 55 gallon tank that is also the quietest! Laura >> Canisters and bio balls in the wet dry suffer from the same condition - they are a place for any kind of detritus to settle and rot. So, unless you can clean them often (and you don't really want to clean bio balls at all because you can wash of the beneficial bacteria) the become 'nitrate factories'. You can use the canister as circulation or as an occasional place to put carbon, but other than that you really don't want any media in there. >>As for the 'best' system, ummm, errrg, its not that simple. Virtually every system is custom for one reason or another as you are learning with wanting to quiet it down. If you don't already have a good reef book I suggest Bob Fenner's "Conscientious Marine Aquarist" or Delbeek and Sprung's "The Reef Aquarium Vol 1". Either will give you a good overview of all your options. Then if you have questions >>Rich >>The sump itself is fine, what you don't want is to have it stuffed with bio balls or other media. I still have time to return the wet dry sump. What do you recommend I replace it with? > Hi! I had a tank set up for me and the sound that the overflow is making is so bad that I'm just about to through in the towel on marine aquaria (no pun intended). If I can't make the sound more tolerable I might have to change my mind about having a big tank. I would really like to have a full blown reef eventually but I haven't even added the skimmer yet which will make even more noise. Are there any REALLY quiet filter systems and hang-on skimmers? What should I do? Have the glass tank drilled? Switch from my wet/dry sump to something else? Everything is set-up and running so I'm afraid to tear everything down and get everything drilled and re-set-up and not have it meet the standards of peacefulness. Are there any other relatively simple options we could work on putting together to make for a virtually noise-free system? > Thank you! > Laura > >>Hi Laura, don't worry! There are options! It sound like you have a hang on back, external overflow and that is where the noise is coming from. Go to www.dursostandpipes.com, click on popular modifications, and click on external overflow. It is a simple mod that makes a big difference. If I misunderstood, please let me know. > If you want a full blown reef, you might want to look into the whole wet dry thing, as they aren't really recommended for reefs anymore - regardless of what the people who sold it to you may have said. > There are quiet in sump skimmers, and ways to quiet them even further, as well as quiet hang on back skimmers. When you get to that point let us know! > Rich It's All On The Site - 11/11/2005 I'm sorry if I'm repeating a question, <Many, actually.> but I've looked on the site and I'm still a little confused. <Much that you find confusing now can be alleviated with time, patience, and research. No worries.> I'm new at the whole saltwater reef tank thing. I have a freshwater 90 gallon right now that I want to convert to a reef tank soon. But I'm not sure what kind of filtration to use.... <Much, much to learn, here....> I've heard refugium is the best way to go but.... I'm not really sure how that works... do I need a wet dry to run a refugium?? <No, not necessarily.... start reading.> <<Not at all. Do what the nice lady says, please. MH>> Also.. I know I'll need a protein skimmer but.... what exactly does a protein skimmer do? What is it? <Removes dissolved organics from the water; again, read.... http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm . Much on skimmers here, also on other filtration methods including refugiums.> <<Foam fractionation is actually a rather old form of "chemical" filtration, and has many, many uses, including in some food production and refinement of certain products. Google "foam fractionation". MH>> Also, if I go with the refugium setup, what all do I need to buy to get it up and running? <Too many possibilities, too much information to impart in a mere email. Start with that link, and get crackin'.... you'll need to form your own opinions on these very subjective questions.> Thank you for your time. -Kurt <Wishing you well, -Sabrina> Are Refugiums and Sumps Mandatory? 11/3/05
Greetings, <Hi Brad!> Brad B. here. I've been reading a lot
on your web site to try an educate myself, answer questions and get
ideas. I'm trying to be a good steward and have a basic question.
First, here's my scoop: 46 g bow front marine aquarium / 60 lbs of
live reef sand / mix of rock and live rock - a good coverage of LR but
not all that much weight as I chose specimens with good color and
surface area but light (save $$) / two Emperor 280s (fiber media plus
activated carbon cartridges) / AquaC Remora skimmer with MaxiJet 1200 /
two AquaClear 50s and two AquaClear 30s for circulation / Coralife
36" with a 96W Actinic, 96W 10,000K white, and two lunar LEDs on a
timer - Actinic = 12 hrs and White 10,000K 8 hrs... okay... Can I
expect good success (such as getting/keeping nitrates near zero) with a
low fish load - inverts - corals given the above stated setup without
adding a sump or refugium? <Brad of course it is possible to get
away without a refugium or a sump. Though I will say a refugium is in
my opinion a great asset to any marine tank, not only as a nutrient
export device as a breeding ground for detritivores and micro-fauna.
The sump is a great place to hide equipment and improve the aesthetics
of the display. And both the refugium and the sump increase your water
volume and thus your margin of error. Having said that yes, as I stated
above these are not mandatory. However the heavier maintenance because
of the lack of these devices will fall on you. You may need to perform
extra water changes; and yes I would understock your tank as far as
fish.> I want to/did invest in good stuff but want to keep it simple
as possible. Many thanks! <Welcome Adam J.> Major Remodeling (Tank Reconfiguration) 11/16/05 Hey guys great site! <Thanks for the kind words! Scott F. here today!> I know you are busy so I will get right to it. I have been running an undergravel system (powered by two power heads) in my 75 g marine tank for years. I also run two (for lack of knowing what to call them) "hang on" filters on the back of the tank that cycle the water through carbon filtration. All has been well until I began to finally get into corals. <Ahh...the coral bug has bitten...> I currently have a colony of Xenia, a Pink Bubble Coral, Frogspawn, a couple of Ricordea, and some Green Star Polyps. I also have live rock in my tank as well as some Clownfish, Tangs, a Koran Angel, Large Green Chromis, Cleaner Shrimp, Hermits, and snails etc. . My question is this: can I phase out the undergravel system and update to a more "reef friendly" set up. I hate the crushed coral bottom and would love to go to live sand as well as do whatever necessary to give my corals the ideal conditions to grow and spread. Is it possible? <Well, I would be inclined not to remove the UG filter plate after you stop using it, unless you do plan on removing the substrate as well (Sounds like you do want to switch substrate, however). I am in favor of setups utilizing sumps for water processing. If it were me, I'd view this as a complete "re-start" of the system, if your intent is to switch over substrate and filtration methodology. The tank will have to go through a new cycling process, just as if it were brand new (which it essentially will be!). BTW, the Koran will get pretty large, and cannot be considered a "coral safe" fish for an indefinite period of time.> What do I replace it with? How fast should I make the transition? <Sump-based systems are the way to go, IMO. You'd be wise to set up temporary quarters for your animals as you "remodel" the system. Proceed slowly, and study these types of systems before you make the move. Don't skimp on the equipment, particularly lighting and protein skimming. These items will make a huge difference for you down the line. Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>
Marine Filtration 9/27/07 -- 9/27/07 Hello all (esp. Scott F.). <Hi Stan, James with you today.> After avoiding a mistake (putting too many or too big a fish in my 75 gallon tank), I am now focusing on filter design and set-up, and committing to wait at least a month before adding any livestock. I now have my kids doing research with me, so they understand proper husbandry and care requirements (okay, they are 3 and 6, but they are at least involved). <Ah, no better time to get them started.> It looks like I am going to set up a fish only tank (with small fish!) then converting over to a reef set up later on, so I want to make sure that my sump design is on target. I am looking at a 29 gallon sump, which will hold about 12 gallons or so in the lower portion, with a separate refugium chamber fed by a powerhead (expect about 150 gph) which will flow back into the main sump. I'll use the refugium chamber as a bubble trap, along with a filter pad on each end. For skimming, I'll have an Aqua-C Remora on the main tank. Flow through the sump itself should be about 450 gph. The display will have 80 lbs of base rock, along with a 1" bed of live sand, and about 10 lbs of Tonga live rock to seed the base rock and add some variation to the look. In the refugium, I plan on placing a 5" DSB along with 5-10 lbs of live rock rubble. <I'd go no more than 3"> I hope to order some benthic organisms and macroalgae online, as my LFS doesn't have them. Question...will this set up work for a reef tank (I'll add more circulation via a closed loop at that point) as well as for my small fish only system? <Should be no problem but I'd go with more live rock before you convert it to reef. It would take quite some time for the 10 pounds on Tonga to seed the 80 pounds of base rock.> I keep searching and reading, and I am especially grateful (and impressed) that there is a common thread with all your responses, and no real contradiction of information. <Why thank you.> Thanks again for all you guys do! <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Stan Should I Use A Canister Filter? - 12/31/07 Hi Eric or whoever is on duty this evening, <<Hiya Ken...Eric here>> My 90 gallon SPS tank is doing great. <<Excellent>> I recently set up a second tank primarily for a RBTA and a pair of Clarkii clown fish. <<Neat!>> I will probably add another 4 small fish and some star polyps and mushrooms at some point. <<Mmm, too bad...the tank/anemone would fare much better in the long term without the polyps and mushrooms trying to constantly poison it>> The tank is a 46 gallon bow (3 foot length) with about 65 pounds of live rock, TEK 5 T5 lighting, two Tunze 6025 Nano Stream powerheads, and a Deltec hang on back skimmer. I am not using a sump. Even though I can make a large % water change with a couple of buckets of new water, or water from my SPS tank with this size tank if I ever run into trouble, I was wondering if I should add a canister filter to my set up? <<I would...for chemical filtration (carbon/Poly-Filter)>> If I did this, I would not use the bio media or noodles, and just use the sponge for mechanical filtration to trap debris. <<If you do...be sure to clean the filter sponge of detritus one or more times a week, else the canister filter will become more of a "problem" than a "solution">> I could also use it for PhosBan etc if needed. <<Indeed>> I have no mechanical filtration in my SPS tank, but the debris eventually will end up in my sump which I can then clean out. <<Agreed... And with good strong water flow, the suspended detritus (or marine snow, if you like) is actually quite good "food" for your corals>> This tank has no sump. I of course will have a clean up crew for the tank. Do you think the canister filter is a good idea or a waste of money? <<Can be quite useful, as described/when maintained properly>> If it is a good idea, is Eheim still the way to go? <<Many choices available these days...but you won't go wrong with the Eheim product>> Thanks, Ken <<Happy to help. EricR>> Filtration Recommendations, Protein Skimmers, Refugium -- 1/2/08 Brenda et al, <Art> Thanks for responding to my fishy questions! <You're welcome!> I have a 45 gallon saltwater aquarium FOWLR and will gradually change to a beginning reef fish tank with your help and LFS. Currently I have a wet/dry filter and typically a nitrate factory. I invested in this when I started my aquarium 8/30/07. I regret my newbie choice in the filtration. <You're not alone in the regrets of a newbie. We've all been there.> Could you provide specific brand and type of filtration that I might replace it with this New Year 08? I have 5 small damsels, 2 gobies, 1 small clown fish, 12 assorted hermit crabs, 1 black urchin, 1 brown crab and several small/med snails. I have 40 #s of LR. <A good protein skimmer is your best option here. I recommend a lot of research on protein skimmers before you purchase. There are a lot of poor choices that can be made. I personally use the Aqua C skimmers for my reef tanks. More information here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/cav1i1/protein_skimmer_impressions.htm and here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/proskimrart2.htm . Read through the FAQ's regarding skimmers. I also use and recommend a refugium. More information found here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm . You will want to read all the articles and FAQ's associated with refugiums. Thanks, Art <You're welcome! Hope this helps! Brenda> Filtration and flow I have a 54 corner tank that is reef/fish and I am wondering if 50 lbs live rock and my CPR back pack 2r with carbon and phosphate removal in a biomedia bag put in the return chamber is enough for filtration? I have two rio 1100 for flow in the 54 corner, is that enough again it is a reef/fish tank. >> Call me a worry wart, but I would add a bit of redundancy here for your 54... Either a BIG hang on power filter, or a good canister filter....like an Eheim... The added biological, mechanical filtration at minimal operating cost will give you needed aeration, circulation, flexibility, margin for error... and peace of mind. Bob Fenner 100 gallon reef/fish tank, filtration choices, sources I've written a couple of times about the 100 gallon and thanks for your recommendations. I have finally gotten the filtration (sort of) and stand out of the way now on to lighting. <Hmm> My tank is 60'' long. I have been looking at the pc fixtures offered by championlighting and FF Xpress <Two good choices> Question: 1) I have noticed the light tubes are not 60''. They are somewhat shorter and inside the hood the bulbs overlap in the middle. This leaves about 6'' on either end of the fixture that is not covered by all four tubes but only two tubes. From my understanding, I would say the middle of the fixture is giving 4x 96 watts but the 6'' on either end of the fixture is giving 2x96 watts. Is this correct? Will the difference be enough to cause dead spots? Does it matter? <Good points, and practically speaking... not much...> 2) VHO bulbs are 60'' and it seems to me they would give a better distribution of light but I don't really know how I feel about the "180 degree built in reflector. . ." <With a white reflector above and to the sides this is a minor concern> 3) I've been looking at these new refugiums that hang on the back of the aquarium and are sold by Petwarehouse among others (about $100). The one I'm looking at is 24'' long and 4'' wide. Is this type of refugium worth having? <Absolutely... a friend and I experimented with making ones about like this (now made by/for CPR, Ecosystem...) and never got "to market", but have them working (now for years) on tanks here... they work.> 4) I have been reading GARF and the plenum idea appeals to me. Some other authors write that plenums work but a delicate balance is needed and plenums have the possibility of causing real problems with the tank. Assuming that you recommend having a plenum. . .could I use undergravel filter plates (stop up the pump hole) as a plenum? <Yes to all> I have nightmares about having 100 lbs of live rock in a tank and having to take all of it out because the plenum isn't functioning. Plenum--Refugium---Plenum----Refugium---BOTH? HELP!!! Other currently used filtration includes an Eheim canister and a Remora Aqua C skimmer. <Both would be better than just either one> 5) Would a sump with some live sand, Caulerpa spp., and live rock cancel the need for either a refugium or a plenum? <Hmm, supplant, yes, to a large degree...> As always, thanks for your generous (product unbiased) opinions. I'm trying to be budget conscious but jeez, there's so much equipment it's hard to tell what's needed. I called the guys at GARF about these questions and they wouldn't talk about anything they don't sell. Surprising . . . <Not surprising... but disappointing.> I want you guys to get an online store where I can use the good old debit card to buy books and more. . .at good prices. . . . <Yikesville! Another job!? Will send this suggestion along.> Friend in Fish, David Dowless <Thank you my friend. Bob Fenner> Reef Filtration Dear Bob, I know you are a very busy man and
answer some questions hundreds of times. I would like to thank you in
advance for any help you could be to me. <You're welcome> I
have a 125 all glass tank the lighting is 2 40 w actinics 2 40 w super
daylight and 175 w MH 10000 the act lights come on at 6 am the
daylights at 7 and the MH at 8 they go off MH at 7 day at 8 and act at
9 does this seem ok? <Yes, for...?> I am using 75 lbs live
sand and 90 lbs live rock I also have a twenty gallon tank that I use
as a sump where I run a Berlin skimmer powered by a rio 3100 the return
pump is a rio 1700 The over flow is a small hang on type with a small
foam prefilter. Is this sufficient for this size of tank I also have a
rio 1700 and the return and one other power head for circulation in the
main tank. <Sounds good so far> The tank has been setup for four
weeks I've already added two clowns a dragon wrasse sleeper goby
scooter blenny red brittle star a serpent star a few scarlet crabs
Astrea snails and Nassarius snails a Condylactis an and a carpet
an. <Yikes... slow down on that stocking...> I plan to more
to my clean up crew this weekend. <For browsers here, I'd
have added the clean up crew only by now...> I really hated to add
all of this to tank this sooner but I already had these creatures in
another tank and due to certain things could not wait any longer
however everything seems to be doing fine except my ph is 8.6 and I
have green algae which covers all the glass daily I clean the front but
leave the rest till I can get a better cleanup crew. <Ah, starting
to make more sense> I plan to keep some soft corals and polyps and
probably 3 or 4 more fish. Is there anything I should change in this
set up and could you advise any additives right now I just plan to use
b-ionic 2 part for alk and calcium. Thanks Randy and Tina <Do just
keep an eye on alkalinity and your calcium levels. All should work out
soon... will you be adding lighting and macro-algae to the sump? Bob
Fenner> Before I buy the lighting (reef filtration) One more question. I have been reading night and day lately about keeping a reef. I have read about sumps, refugiums, wet/dry filters, etc. At this point, I know very little about these pieces of equipment. I will learn but could you give me a heads-up if I can maintain a reef without these items. <Yes, you can... these tools can just make the whole project simpler, more predictable by providing more constant, faster reacting filtration, more volume> Before I spend $400 for lights, I want to know if I can have a nice, healthy reef with the following setup: 55g standard 45 lbs Fiji LR ~4" DSB (120 lbs HD Southdown sand) PC (which ones yet to be determined) Hang on Protein skimmer (currently on tank) Hang on AquaClear mechanical filter (currently on tank) 2 power heads (one back left, one back right) One airstone Can I keep a nice reef? Can I keep all inverts, possibly including hard corals and a clam? <Yes, yes... but would definitely add more mechanical filtration here... w/o this, you will have a too-narrow safety margin (even if tank/system in "balance" overall) and could have real trouble should "something" go wrong... Do consider a sump here... and keep studying... more fun, discoveries to come. Bob Fenner> Thanks for the continued help! Susie LFS concerns I have spoke with him before, he just happens to be my neighbor. Marine aquariums are not big here...about 6 ppl, the only saltwater tank he has is his display. <You just got to keep trying with this guy. I have the same problem. There is an LFS here in Vegas that houses all (including SPS!) of his corals under about 1.5 watts per gallon of regular fluorescents until they are sold which often takes weeks or even months. Anything that isn't sold within the first month dies quickly thereafter. I've tried to explain to this guy why the corals don't survive (lighting...DUH!). He said none of the corals needed light because he fed them daily with mysis and brine shrimp!!! HAHAHAHAHAHA!! Ignorance is curable. When ignorance is mixed with stupidity, the situation is hopeless, IMO> With the next LFS not really local at 3 hours away, the prices are unbelievably high. <Buy a lot of stuff in one trip or keep trying to educate this other LFS> It was a real culture shock moving to this area 7 years ago, and until 2 years ago... he had no marines. So this is why I just can't understand him at least taking his diseased fish out of the display, especially since I have doubts that his supplier would credit him for a fish he has had for at least 7 weeks. <Shop owners have ways to get the credit. The next time he receives a shipment of tangs he'll just report one or more of the new ones as "dead." If the LFS has a long term relationship with the supplier, he most likely won't need to produce a carcass> My contact with ppl that knew anything at all about saltwater tanks has been non-existent, and finding WWM has been like finding an oasis. <Fantastic!> It's funny to see how much things have changed though, especially as far as filtration and tank setup. Now I am looking at my setup and wondering what I should do to improve it. I've been running a Marineland magnum 350 with it's output split to it's standard output and a bio-wheel pro 30, Marineland 660 powerhead just for extra circulation at bottom, and my soon to be replaced Skilter 250. I have had this setup since 94 on a Oceanic 55g FO with very light bio loads The Skilter will be replaced by aqua c remora, not sure if I should get the pro or not for this size tank. I had wanted to add another canister (Fluval 404)with the suction line opposite my magnum, but after reading the horror's ppl have had with canisters... I'm not sure now. I have always done ok with canisters though. I will be slowly adding LR and upgrading my lighting, but nothing for the next 6 months except for maybe 10#'s of LR to see how it goes. Any comments on altering/changing filtration short of a sump would be helpful. <For a reef tank? Consider a plenum with deep sandbed. The mechanical filtration that you have is adequate but it will eventually produce lots of nitrates. If this is a FO that will not be a problem. In a reef tank it will eventually be problematic. At least get a really good skimmer and get it pulling lots of stuff out of the water ASAP> -Chris <David Dowless> Reef Filtration What should the filtration on a 200 gal reef system be? What is optimum I mean ? <this is determined by the intended bio-load (largely feeding and fish levels/mass). On average... a lot of live rock, two skimmers cleaned alternately and modest chemical filtration is all that is needed. Simple and natural> There will be a Heteractis Magnifica in this tank also so I don't know if that will put a hamper on the filtration needs. <anemones do not belong in reef tanks... they are nightmares and I would bet VERY good money that your anemone will die if not cause a major disaster in this tank within 2 years like most in mixed invert gardens do. Many reasons for this not the least of which is the fact that you are placing a motile stinging Cnidarian in with sessile stinging cnidarians (coral). This is especially true is you intend to have any LPS corals like Hammer, Octopus, Galaxea, Elegant, etc. Please keep this anemone in a sun lit species specific tank if you must have one> Wet/dry , <nix the W/D... an unnecessary nitrate producing machine unless you will have a heavy fish load> Chemical, Biological, Skimming, <all good> UV, <also unnecessary unless you are building a phyto reactor for it. Else it will kill desirable plankton. If used for disease control... save your money and set up a proper quarantine tank instead> etc. There will also be at least 200 lbs of live rock and some various fish and inverts and maybe a few corals. There a 2 coral life MH over it and that is it. I am thinking of adding a coral life combo hood MH/fluorescent to it also so 4 MH a 2 fluorescent. Is this adequate for a Magnifica and some corals? <yes...likely, although I wouldn't take coral life MH lamps/fixtures for free. Do consult message boards on this topic for an intelligent consensus> IS there a grave possibility this species of anemone will eat my fish <nope... it will get stung by a coral or die in an intake/overflow strainer first> and if so is there a better large anemone? <most anemones are somewhat to very challenging to keep. My advice is to admire them from afar. They also suffer terribly from collections where many/most coral are unaffected. A conscientious choice> Any and all you help is greatly appreciated. John fin) P.S. The corals I am wanting to add are Acroporas and maybe and anchor or possibly an elegance or a flower pot polyp. yes/no? <enjoy the Acroporas and other sps corals and leave out the elegance and flowerpot... they are notoriously difficult (one because of collections, the other hardiness). Please review the Wet Web Media archives for information on these corals...there is A LOT on these species. Best regards, Anthony> Reef Questions- follow up Hi Thank you very much for a fast reply Anthony, I do have a Berlin from red sea, <I like other models for lower nutrient reef systems, indeed> but not using them anymore since I'm in a favor of, but I'm currently using EV150 from AquaC, but water level has to be consistent to get a good skimmate, <as it is for every skimmer> I have nothing against it but feel I need an even powerful skimmer like Euroreef. <much agreed!> You mention seagrass and calcareous are more stable and I agree with Macro, but where can I get seagrass and what do you think about mangrove. <see if any of you local stores has an independent diver that collects their Atlantic stock (Astraea snails, blue leg hermits, etc)...they can collect it cheaply. If you do decide to try seagrass please write back for an excerpt from my book on the finer points of establishing it in refugia...it is simple but strict. As far as the mangroves, ditto on the previous and my general opinion is that they are wonderful for aesthetics but grow to slow to be a significant means of nutrient export in aquaria> Agree with thin layers it gave me lots of headache. thanks I will get a luxmeter ASAP. I do have a problem with PH I think will decide to connect the end of the Ca reactor to another canister filled with aragonite (med) that way it does not lower ph, <you won't regret it...wonderful> and will decide to keep top of the tank open since they may restrict O2 from entering the tank and according to the Ozone controller 280-310 that tells me that 02 saturation is very low. <possibly low> I do change the mechanical filter media weekly you suggested every other day. In terms of MH light I currently use Ushio 10,000 K, and previously from Hamilton brands, but recently bought 65000K 400watt Iwasaki, <yes...generally quite good> but according to others you loose wattage with Iwasaki how true is this? <have heard this but cannot confirm. I have had tremendous success with 400 watt Radiums as well> Thanks for your advice I don't thaw the frozen food, and I think that might be a root, <an often overlooked source of nutrients for algae... the passage of thawed pack juice> which lead to another question why is the rock filled with many detritus and I do blast them turkey blaster, but is this from excess nutrient due to not thawing the frozen food. <nope...just insufficient/misdirected current> My purpose about DSB is for nitrate control and also hopefully rid of my current problem with BGA as well, but at the same time I also want a competing for nutrients plants <sugar fine and deep is your path then> and I hope mangrove is much easier than macro algae. <much> Thank you in advance I appreciate your good advice. <very welcome, Anthony Calfo> Re: Filtration Dear Robert, Is there such a thing as over-filtering a system? <Yes... though rare... much more common is "mis-filtering", under filtration> I use an underground and a conventional air filter that have maximum capabilities that are a bit more than the size of my tank. Will this hurt the fish? Thanx. <No my friend. Bob Fenner> -James Kim Filtration For A Growing System! Hi WWM, <Hello there! Scott F. here today> First may I say your site continues to be a veritable fountain of knowledge. <We're really happy to bring it to you! And our readers are the best! I learn as much from their experiences as I do from my own! What a great hobby, huh?> I am currently running a 700 litre marine tank with 3 fish and some coral rock. I have been unable to establish the system to the level I initially planned, I simply cannot maintain calcium levels in such a large environment. I wish to set up a smaller tank and focus on keeping a low bioload. <Well, sounds like you're a prime candidate for a calcium reactor. You can purchase or build one to fit your tank's needs and your budget. Really the most efficient way to maintain calcium and alkalinity levels in a larger system> Anyways, do you think it would be sufficient to use a Fluval 304 filter on a tank which will hold around 200 litres, containing perhaps one clownfish, an anemone, a shrimp, some mushrooms, polyps etc ? <Well, the Fluval is a fine mechanical filter system. However, it's tough to maintain the very high water quality required by some corals with just a filter of this size. It's important to regularly clean and/or replace the media contained within the filter, so that they do not become "nutrient traps", and contribute to declining water quality. Personally, however, I tend to favor a simple sump system, for its flexibility and efficiency. You can make your own with little effort> I have a homemade protein skimmer that is extremely efficient, so this will keep the organics low. <Great! A protein skimmer should be considered an absolutely mandatory piece of equipment for any marine system. It will really help with your system, particularly if it you are depending on a mechanical filter for the primary filter system> I am worried a canister filter will not keep the water quality high enough for a tank of invertebrates and corals. <Well, as above- I would employ a sump system for optimal flexibility and efficiency> I will use one of my 150w 10k MH lights as well as a small actinic tube to provide illumination. <Sounds fine for the creatures that you mentioned that you'd be keeping> Do you think my proposed method of filtration will yield a healthy tank of marine creatures ? <It certainly can work, as long as you pay close attention to husbandry techniques, particularly nutrient export processes (such as water changes, skimming, use of chemical filtration media, etc). Stay on top of the basics, and I have no doubt that you will create a system that your animals will enjoy, and that you'll be proud to own!> Thanks a heap Andrew Hough <My pleasure, Andrew! Best of luck! Regards, Scott F>
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