Sebae Anemone Questions 1/3/12
Dear Bob,
<James with you today Abbasali.>
Good Morning/Afternoon/Evening. It's me again. After over 12 years in the saltwater hobby and having great success with it I finally felt I was ready for an anemone for my tank which has been running very well for over a year. So I acquired a Sebae Anemone (the only variety that was available)
I looked and got the specimen with the most visible colour, although much of the outer tentacles were white.
I acclimated it and introduced it to my tank. Within ten minutes it had found a nice place and buried its foot in the sand and has not moved until this morning, one week after introduction. The colour in the center has intensified and some of the outer tentacles seem to have begun regenerating their colour. The anemone is very responsive and accepts food (freeze dried krill) like a sponge, grabbing with the tentacles and passing it to the orifice. I have nearly six watts of 14000k metal halides per gallon, currently and very good flow in the display area (tentacles waving in the breeze).
Since introduction thin scraggly tentacles have become nice long turgid looking tentacles and the purple tips have become quite striking, along with the specimen opening up fully (to take in the light i assume). This morning however I find the anemone has moved about two inches and now lies practically entirely under a rocky overhang, although everything else seems normal. Is this normal behaviour?
<Can be. Anemones generally move to an area of their liking both in flow and lighting. It's possible the light intensity of the area the anemone was in may be a little too much for it's liking. Although Heteractis crispa appreciate strong lighting, it is a good idea to light acclimate the anemone especially with the lighting you are using.>
Is everything I have described before normal behaviour? What should I look out for to tell if an anemone has died so that I may avert a disaster of gargantuan proportions?
<Look for deflation for an extended period of time (two/three days),
refusal to feed, and to read here and related articles/FAQs.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/heteraccrispa.htm>
As I told you previously (not that I expect you to remember :-D) all my parameters are well in order and the fish show no signs of distress at all.
Please let me know if I should be worried.
<Not yet.>
Thanks and warm regards from perpetually sunny Sri Lanka! :-D
<You're welcome from cold and dreary Michigan.>
PS: My skimmer has stopped producing foam as of this morning and it seems that there is nothing to skim because bubbles are there in full force and I don't notice any foam in the filtration area where the surface agitates (normally if the skimmer has not worked for a period foam develops in these areas). Does this mean that there is nothing to skim or could this be a cause for alarm?
<Would give it a good cleaning, especially the venturi. Rising nitrate levels should tell you if the skimmer is not working efficiently.>
Re Sebae Anemone Questions, hlth f' 1/4/12
Hi James,
<Hello Abbasali>
Thanks for replying so quickly... I shall watch the anemone.
<OK>
As for the skimmer it was fully serviced last week and was working perfectly fine producing a thick foam and thick green liquid with a lot of gunk. I cleaned out the collection cup day before yesterday and tweaked it a bit to get a bit more skimmate. Could this be the issue?
<Possibly. By chance did you put anything new in the system made from acrylic?
Sometimes this can cause a temporary problem with skimming and/or if you cleaned the skimmer with a substance other than warm water. James (Salty Dog)>
Re Sebae Anemone Questions 1/4/12
Hi,
<Hello>
Nope, nothing acrylic. Just cleaned the skimmer with cold water. I don't normally use warm water. As for the anemone, it's still under the rocks. I can see the pedal disc. How do I tell if it is dying? It's just been over two days since it went under the rocks. Should I be worried?
<Mmm, seems like I just went through that with you. Read the thread again.>
Thanks.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>

sebae looks injured???, Heteractis crispa injury 4/20/11
Hi,
<<Hello Peter.>>
Yesterday I noticed that my sebae anemone decided to move, I thought nothing of it, until I noticed part of the anemone didn't look good. It appears to be injured in a small area, but the rest looks healthy, just not opening up as much as it used to.
<<Peter it's difficult to diagnose with such vague information to be honest, without more the best I can do is guess. Heteractis crispa has a dismal track record to begin with (See the WWM art; http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/heteraccrispa.htm ). Can you describe the characteristics of the injury (i.e. a tear, discoloration) and where exactly on the animal it is? (Or better yet send along a pic). Also what type of system is this animal in? (lighting, chemistry readings, feeding regime...). How long have you had the animal? All of this is important as these animals usually suffer in captivity due to some environmental deficiency, assuming they were collected properly to begin with of course.>>
So I took a look at where it moved from, and no rocks or corals had fallen on it. Can you help me?
<<See above >>
-Peter
<<Adam J.>>

Sebae Anemone Trouble/Sebae Systems/Sebae Health 10/7/10
Hi,
<Hello Sarah>
Well, first let me say that your website has been a lifesaver for my fish!
Thank you for being so helpful!
<You're welcome. Sarah, before I can go any further, I'd like your tank size, lighting used, and tank parameters, pH, dKH, etc. James (Salty Dog)>
Now, I recently purchased a Sebae Anemone, and I'm starting to think it was a foolish move. I've had the tank cycled for several months now with live rock and a homemade sump tank and everything has been doing great. I have 2 false Perculas that I thought would enjoy an anemone. Well, for starters I think I bought the wrong one, but that's not my problem. The issue is that it has been doing great since I've had it. When I first put him in the tank after dripping him for about an hour, he almost immediately ventured for his spot in the tank, and has been there since. When I first got him, he was bleached white, and has slowly been turning a slight tan color since, so I was happy. Well, today when I went to feed him, I noticed one of my hermit crabs starting to trample all over him to steal his food. About an hour later when I checked him out again, he was all shriveled up and expelling a long piece of white stuff, almost looked like a thick cobweb, and it seemed to be all over the shell of the hermit crab that was harassing him earlier. Is this a sign of any kind of trauma?
Should I be worried about him? I know Sebaes are not the hardiest of anemones, but I didn't think they were that delicate.... I was hoping my clowns would notice it, but they haven't at all...but the more I read on your site, the more I've come to learn that the two are not a normal pair... but that's ok. If I can keep this one alive, I might get a second, or do a trade in.
Thanks for your help!!
Sarah

Re: Anemone ID... Not dying 7/1/10 update Hey all I believe/hope my bleached anemone is recovering. I attached before and after photos taken 6 weeks apart. I still am not sure what kind it is. (my clowns seem to like it regardless) Am I correct in thinking its getting better? Can it now be identified? Sebae? Thanks for your help. Steve <Yes!, and likely Heteractis crispa. BobF>

Sebae Anemone/Health/Systems 6/29/10
Dear WWM,
<Nick>
Your posts and e-mails have always provided valuable advice.
<Thank you.>
I have read through many of the FAQ links concerning Sebae Anemones and cannot seem to locate specific information regarding a few things. Before I ask my questions, here is some information about my tanks (I have one Sebae in each tank):
Tank One; 14 gallon (I will be moving the Anemone to tank two once I know rather or not it is healthy) Oceanic Bio Cube (I do not know the exact lighting these are sold with; it has not been upgraded from factory lighting).
<Will not stay too healthy in this scenario, too small even if temporary.>
I have a UV, skimmer, heater @ 80.5 degrees, 20 pounds live rock, twenty - thirty pounds of live sand, one sexy shrimp (who loves the anemone!), one Maroon clown,
<Too small a system for this fish.>
one damsel (white with a yellow tail; don't know the name), 3 Nerite Snails, 3 nessarius (spelling?) <Nassarius>, 4
hermit crabs, a serpent starfish, and a Nano power head. I have the white and blue lights on for six hours, moon-light for 8 hours, and just blue lights for the rest of the time.
<The lighting in this system is no where near adequate for this anemone.
I'm quite sure you haven't read here.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/heteraccrispa.htm>
Tank Two; 75 gallons. This tank has a 120 gallon sump, a Red Sea Venturi skimmer, UV, 80 pounds live sand, 55 pounds live rock, three 1050gph power heads, a 4 bulb (2 blue, 2 white) T5 light with 216 watts total output (same
lighting hours as tank one), 1 False Percula Clown, 3 Damsels, 1 Turbo Snail, 3 hermit crabs, 4 Nerite / nessarius <Nassarius> snails, temp at 80 degrees.
Both tanks test 0-0.5 nitrates / nitrites, <?> 490 calcium, 8.5 PH, 15dkh (high), 0.5 phosphates (down from 2.0 last week). Water changes bi-weekly of 25-45%.
So here are my questions (finally!). I have read a lot of posts on your site about "bleached" anemones. How am I to know if it is bleached or normal colored? What color are they when they are healthy and if mine is not, how do I go about nursing it back to good health? Both of my anemones are white(ish) yellow with purple tips.
<Sebae (Heteractis crispa) have a gray or violet-brown appearance overall, depending on the concentration of its symbiotic algae, and will have a centered pink tip at the end of the tentacles.>
The anemone in tank 1 has grown 1-2 inches in the past month or two. I feed them phytoplankton and brine
shrimp; perhaps I should move up to something more substantial?
<Yes, found in the above link.>
As for my lighting (in each tank), is it sufficient?
<Tank 1 no, tank 2 may be borderline depending on the depth of the tank.>
My anemones rarely move around and seem to be content on their rocks at the bottom of the tanks. In my 75 gallon, the anemone actually moved into a cave I made for my fish; it could not get any further from the lights unless it buried itself!
<Not a good sign. Do read the article I linked you to.>
Lol
Do Sebae Anemones like a lot of current? I wonder if my current in tank 2 is too much?
<If the three 1050gph power heads are always on, yes, it is too much and may be why the anemone
settled in the cave which is not a good place to get the light it requires.
Better to set these pumps up with a wavemaker device. The Aquarium Systems model is very inexpensive and
works well.>
The fish do not seem to mind it. J
I know this is a very long post and I truly appreciate your help!!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
~Nick

Sebae Gaining Brown Then Shriveled 5/31/2010
Dear WWM,
<KT>
First of all, thank you for providing such wonderful site for everyone.
I've been a reader for the past year and today I am in an emergency and decided to write to you in hope to rescue my Sebae.
My tank is a 28 gal Nano Cube with the following parameter:
pH - 8.15
Alkalinity - 5.5
<In what units?>
Nitrite - 0.075
Nitrate - 0
Ammonia - 1.0 :-( what can I do about lowering the ammonia? I do 10% water change every week.
Phosphate - 0.75
<High>
KH - 12 dKH
Calcium - 420
Mg - 1025
<Low relative to [Ca]>
These numbers have been the same since I introduced the anemone about a week ago. When the anemone arrived, it was pretty white (not quite translucent) but seems in "full bloom". The tentacles were short and stubby though. I read that they are suppose to be long?
<Oh yes>
From Day 3 to Day 7, I can see the anemone gradually gaining some brown.
But a couple days ago, it all of the sudden expelled all of its water and stayed shriveled since. Last night, it begin to "vomit" entrails and the skin of its foot is so shrunken that its "internals" are exposed. I kept testing the water and all numbers stayed the same. Nothing has been introduced to the tank.
Note: from Day 1, it has been showing "attempts" of feeding. But every time, it would hold onto the food (1/8" fresh fish/shrimp meat), spit its stomach out, stay like that for about 3 minutes, then drop the food and tuck its stomach back in. My baby Maroon
<This species gets too big for such a small volume>
has been dropping little bits of food on it as well but same result, it tries to eat but then wouldn't.
I found Mike's reply to a 9/4/05 post. His words of "Never give up" (never surrender! :p) were very encouraging. I followed his suggestion/instruction and force fed the anemone. (I thought I read somewhere else on WWM to never force feed a nem but at this point, I'd rather try something than letting it die.) It balled up and held the food with it. I don't have the Selcon so I just mixed one drop of Garlic Xtreme with Cyclop-eeze (freeze-dried powder form). I'll try to find the Selcon tomorrow. How much Selcon should I mix into the food?
<Just "a drop">
I gave the anemone about 1 ml aquarium water mixed with a (woman's) pinky nail portion of the Cyclop-eeze powder. Is this an okay amount?
<If consumed...>
I read that Selcon contains Vitamin C & B12 plus Omega-3 fatty acid. If I can't get the Selcon quickly, is there another substitute & how much of that should I use?
<There are several... including "baby vitamins"... Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/vitaminmarfaqs.htm
I realize you receive tons of inquiries everyday and thank you very much in advance for your time. For your reference, I've copied the 9/4/05 post at the bottom of this e-mail.
Looking forward to hear back from you soon.
Best Regards,
Katie
<Do keep your eye on this specimen Katie... and re-review what is archived on WWM re Heteractis crispa. Bob Fenner>
Re: Sebae Gaining Brown Then Shriveled 6/1/10
Thank you for such prompt reply, Bob! My alkalinity unit is in meg/L.
The phosphate level is actually 0.075, not 0.75. (Sorry, when numbers drop below 0.1, I get confused.) I'll try to bring up the Mg level and use the vitamins suggested in the provided link. Is there anything I can do about
lowering the ammonia level?
<... see WWM re>
Should I do an even more frequent water change?
<... likely so...>
Thanks again!
Katie
<... B>

BTA demise 5/13/10 Hi to all WWM crew, Its the first time I ask/write a question to you, usually I find the answer or something near to it in the website, Ill try to cover all the details, completely cycled aquarium,70 gal, plus 30 more of sump, DIY skimmer in urgent need of perfection, evaporative cooling device (fan) to maintain water on the 24/28 °C right now its 26°C, it evaporates a lot of water, I replenish it daily with treated tap water, no RO yet. SG is 1.1025, <1.025 likely> Calcium is 450 ppm, <Mg?> nitrates are 5 ppm, nitrites 0, pH 8.4. A deep sandbed about 5 inches consisting of crushed coral an a 1inch or more aragonite sand, lots of live rock and really don't know how much, full of sponges, coraline algae, two varieties of Caulerpa racemosa and the other one that is more common, <Likely C. taxifolia... both too toxic for casual use. See WWM re> under control, just two little patches of green color, GAC in the sump and also phos sorb from API, sump is also full of live rock, this live rock has been with me in other aquariums for more than 2 years now. Drilled tank, two 1-1/2 inch outflow and two 1 inch inflows also two Koralia 3 pumps for creating water movement. Lighting is comprised of 2 -56w pc 50/50, and two HO t-5 10,000k and actinic blue lamps making it about 200 w of light, also aquarium gets some nice sun light from the windows in the mornings and midday. I used to have some 30 gal aquariums near this windows and anemones, Condylactis that time used to love the light, or at least I supposed that. Now with the livestock, there is only one sand sifting goby, one little toadstool soft coral, about 3 inches high and about 1-1/2inch wide, one little piece of cup coral that I'm trying to salvage from the LFS, he gave it to me free, I think its making its comeback slowly, (daily feeding trying to get the little tentacles to get something), three turbo snails about 1 inch each, some Aiptasia on the live rock, and the purpose of this email, a new green BTA. <May not get along w/ the other Cnidarians here> On the LFS it had already three weeks on the holding tanks, good color, extended not all but about what I would thing 3/4 it size, it was housing one little maroon clownfish, was the only inhabitant of that tank, its foot was strong, no visible tears or anything suspicious, when I bought it I took much care for the store guy to don't separate it from the rock it was, so I got all the piece together, BTA and rock, perfect condition at my home, made the dripping method to acclimate the anemone and then to put into the aquarium I never got it out of the water, I positioned the rock and BTA the about 2/3 from the bottom of the aquarium, right now it could have chosen any spot it liked, everything looked fine, stayed extended, mouth normal no gaping, then next day it started some inflating deflating cycles, inflated by night deflated by day, but then it started to look like those clocks from Dali, hasn't moved from the spot, there is good circulation there, well now It looks worse 4 days from the introduction it seems like something has ripped some tentacles apart, they seem like detaching, and mouth is ok but beside the mouth there is this "open wound" , with stringy things coming out, it really doesn't looks good. Right now it is contracted and on the foot about half its way there is an open wound also, I haven't been able to understand what is going on here, seems like there is something picking on it but I cant see it, the crabs are small and have been with me about 2 years also, always sifting sand and algae, or staying put where a current is to get some food from it. Well that's all I could think of, I don't know what to do my QT tanks aren't ready, and I'm afraid If I move the BTA it will get worse, I'm in the process of stocking these new tank (3 months now, about 1 with the livestock) and well with almost no inhabitants in this tank I saw little problems for the BTA. Any helpful hint, piece of advice, or alike would be greatly appreciated. I'm attaching some pictures of the BTA. Thanks in advance sincerely David Bulnes Abundis <Allelopathy is the most likely trouble here, though there are a few other possibilities. Read: http://wetwebmedia.com/BTADis8.htm and the linked files above. Bob Fenner> BTA Demise pictures 5/13/10 Hi, I just wrote about 10 minutes ago, my laptop was crashing and to avoid losing all the long email I had written I sent the email without the attached pictures. By the way, the bta has just moved up and now is more in front of a current. Hope the pictures are all right and my anemone can get healthy but it really looks bad. Thank you again wwm. <... this animal has been artificially dyed... and appears to not be an Entacmaea, but a Heteractis crispa... The likelihood of it living is about zip. I'd siphon it out to waste now. Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/coloredanemones.htm and the linked files above. BobF> Has recibido 3 imgenes.

Re: BTA Demise pictures 5/13/10 Just did that about 1 hour ago (siphon it out) really sorry for the poor thing, I´ve been reading the links you stated, how can you tell from the picture it is a dyed animal, I mean, when it was all opened up and "happy" (if it ever was), it had this tan color nothing very colorful I even though It was lacking Zooxanthellae owed to lack of lighting, jut this slight green hue on the tips, but when it started shrinking the green color started to appear more intense as in the photos. <... this fluorescent green is due to Rit dye applied in the orient... One of a few stock phony colours> I´ve seen this tan colour, not the super green, in a very healthy Condylactis so <There is a lighter, more pale green of this hue that occurs in C. passiflora; true> It made me not suspicious of a dyed animal. I would love to learn to distinguish these specimens as I know the people of the LFS and I highly doubt they even know they are trading dyed specimens, I would love to do something to stop this practice, at least at a local level. I've read and own lots of literature including your book, the conscientious marine aquarist, coral propagation from Calfo, Julian Sprung´s the reef aquarium series, Sea Anemones as a hobby of TFH, and the like, in fact I think I have a very good reference book collection. I used to have a little LFS but my PhD consumed all my time and never started with saltwater trade. <Ahh! I salute your efforts at educating yourself, and doing what can be done to improve practices in our trade, interest> Really big thanks for your time and the time of all WWM crew, great site in deed. Sorry for my English and lack of good use of punctuation marks. I´m just really bad at writing English or Spanish in fact, my GF always corrects my research papers. <No worries. I understand you perfectamente> Sincerely, David Bulnes Abundis <Nos vemos. Roberto Fenner> Pictures of the "BTA" 5/14/10 I´m attaching more pictures of my poor anemone, I wanted to know if by this pictures it is possible to tell it is not E. quadricolor and it is H. crispa, <This is almost assuredly Heteractis crispa... judging by the shape, position of tentacles and their red tips... See here: http://wetwebmedia.com/CnidIndex2.htm scroll down to the articles by myself re all Actinarians, this species...> and more important to me, not that knowing the species isn´t, but I find disturbing that I couldn't spot a dyed animal. Any piece of advice will be very welcome. Hope I'm not being too insistent with this new email. Thanks for your quick responses. Saludos y gracias. Sincerely, David Bulnes Abundis <And the article and FAQs file on Dyed Anemones. BobF>

Heteractis Crispa/Systems/Health 5/13/10
<Hello Robert>
My 90 gallon aquarium is mixed corals and has been set up since November 26 ,2009. I have a 10 gallon refugium with macro algae and aragonite sand lit with a florescent full spectrum bulb in addition to the sump and protein skimmer. The 90 gallon is lit with 2- 250 metal hides and 2- 24inch actinic pc compact bulbs.
<Yowsie, you could grow sun with that.>
I have about 80 lbs of live rock that I received from a retiring aquarist complete with all of the mixed corals and 1 Bubble Tipped Anemone <on> December 10,2009.
January 15, 2010 I added 1 Yellow Tang 2 Perculas and a Six Line Wrasse and some brittle stars. Everything is growing very well and I have learned something new almost every day.
<Great!>
So here comes the most recent lesson. I added a piece of live rock with some mushrooms on it and discovered a completely bleached Sebae Crispa
<Heteractis crispa>
as well. Before you say always check before you drive, sometimes things happen. So here is my dilemma; I could bring the whole mess back to the incompetent LFS that the incompetent reef keeper(me) purchased ( I had store credit from freshwater plant sales.) it from so they could kill it or sell it to someone else. Or I could set up a 10 gallon Quarantine tank with metal halide lighting (light can be raised well above aquarium). Or I could leave it in the 90 and pray that the two anemones do not attack. Or I could just remove and destroy. The Sebae Crispa looks very happy and healthy other than being snow white with purple tips.
Your feedback would be greatly appreciated.
<A pic of the anemone in question would have been nice, but to answer your question...Moving the Sebae Anemone to a small system will be a big step backward and will result in almost certain failure as this 10 gallon tank will not be aged enough and/or large enough to satisfy it's needs. If the anemone appears
healthy, he can be in no better spot for recovery than in your 90 with twin MH lamps. The risk you will take is the possibility of losing fish/invertebrates to it's sting, the chance you would have to take.
If you decide to keep the anemone, twice daily inspections should be carried out to ensure the anemone is healthy/improving, and not dying. A dying anemone can poison the entire tank's
inhabitants. Do read here.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/heteraccrispa.htm>
The LFS I purchased this rock from has about 10 salt and 300 freshwater Aquariums and is not normally a go to source for me primarily because of my 20 years of freshwater experience and feedback they have given others conflicts with my experience.
<Happens all too often. James (Salty Dog)>
Robert

Sebae, anemone gen., reading 3/10/10
Please help me. I have a very established salt water tank( 1 yr +), 20 gal
<Too small a volume/world for anemones...>
and I just purchased a Sebae anemone, approx 1 wk ago.
<Return this animal>
Did not know that they are not supposed to white until I read your articles. What I don't get, however, is how to make this animal healthy? Can I get Zooxanthellae(sp) to feed it?
<Not as such, no... can house with other animals that contain... that may be incorporated in time... but not likely at all to live here>
It is small, 2-4 inches, and isn't really eating that I can tell. Is it big enough for silversides?
<Return it>
I have brine shrimp, which I'm guessing from the articles is wrong, sigh. I really don't want this to die. My Fiji Tomato Clown loves it!
<These also require a larger world>
BTW, the clown is only about 1 so it's not loving it to death.
<Good, and good point>
It is currently starting to shrivel somewhat, not turning brown, which I'm guessing is what they need to do, but is sticky and has not moved in the last week from the live rock it has attached itself to. I fed it some brine shrimp today, but can't tell whether it really ate it or the clown ate it. He's really not good at feeding it. What do I do?
<... return>
Yes, levels are fine, nitrates a little high, 30 ppm or so, calcium perfect, ph a little low, still acceptable, but added a buffer to bring it up some. Lighting is good, I have a Coralife t5 ho lighting system, directly on the glass on the gtank, and there is moderate movement in the tank. I have 2 damsels, 1 clown (already mentioned), a camel shrimp, 2 hermit crabs, 1 emerald crab, 3 snails and a pajama cardinal. Also, about 20 lbs of live rock. What do I do to save my little creature?
Sara
<I want you to be successful, and not suffer the disenchantment of losing life through your actions, inactions. Take this specimen back. Bob Fenner>

Sebae Anemone, hlth, no data 7/15/2009 I'm truly baffled by the behavior of my sebae anemone. When I first got this anemone he was a white/pale yellow in color with purple tips. <The one pictured is badly bleached... starving> Then I thought it was normal, now I know it was most likely unhealthy. Since he has been in my tank he has started turning colors. First it started developing a tan tone so I thought he was on the road to recovery. But the color is getting weird now...almost a pink in tone and instead of being folded inward like a cup he is protruding out from the middle? Still actively eating, just doesn't look right at all. What is going on here? <Summat is amiss... chemically in this system... perhaps a negative interaction with some other Cnidarian life> This tank has been up and running for 14 months and the sebae was added about 3 months ago. All of my parameters are within normal range and everything else in my tank is thriving beautifully. Please help me figure out what's going on here. Thank you. <Need data on water testing, other tankmates, history of operation. Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/sebaeandisf2.htm and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

anemone 6/21/09 Hi, <Hello pa loose!> I sent you a picture of my anemone... <Mmm, no, not an Actinarian... look at the prominent corallite skeleton under the translucent bits...> can you tell me what to do... <Is tempting...> I have a clown that host it, and the anemone still eat.. .but it don't look fine :( thank you <... This is a solitary Caryophylliid... See WWM re? Bob Fenner> Re: anemone, not 6/21/09 Hi, thank you for your fast reply... <Welcome> but I don't think I understand... this anemone is a sebae no skeleton at all <... is not Heteractis crispa... or, at least not the pic you sent... will attach what you sent us here for your review> and right now it's look like her mouth is too big but it still eat it's start looking like that only a couple week back ( I have it for about 5 months) I tried searching for "solitary Caryophylliid" on your website, but the search engine doesn't seem to work thank you <See here: http://wetwebmedia.com/caryidfaqs.htm Bob Fenner>

Anemone 6/22/09 Hi, <Noel> I sent you a picture of my anemone... <Pardone moi... I mistook another image of an anemone sent in as yours... I see it now... A Heteractis crispa with the mouth everted...> can you tell me what to do... <We need information re your set-up, water quality tests, other tankmates/livestock, foods/feeding... the history of care of this animal and system> I have a clown that host it, and the anemone still eat.. .but it don't look fine :( thank you <Bob Fenner> April 12, 2009 6:08 AM > To: [email protected] > Subject: magnifica or crispa? > Hi, > <Hello> > I need your help again :) > can you help me telling if this anemone is a Heteractis magnifica or a Heteractis crispa? > <Yes... the latter, though badly bleached> > it was sold as a Heteractis magnifica, but the anemone was white with blue tip... but now it getting some brown on it > <A good sign... likely re-incorporating endosymbiotic Zooxanthellae> > could it be that the anemone was bleach? > <Yes, this is so> > thanks again for your help! > <Welcome. Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/sebaedisfaqs.htm > and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Sebae Anemone/Health 3/30/09
I just received a sebae from a friend of mine, it has no tentacles anymore but he said it should be regenerating them or growing them back some how? Not exactly sure how. what would you recommend to help bring this invert back to life?
<A magician. A pic would help describe "no tentacles"....None at all, or retracted into the column? These anemones are not easy to keep to begin with. See here.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/heteraccrispa.htm
James (Salty Dog)>
Vince

Sebae Anemone Swallowed a Snail 12/07/08 I have a 90 gallon reef tank that has been running smoothly for almost 2 years now. I have a sebae anemone that I acquired about a year ago, and it has been extremely happy in the tank and located in place. It has grown from a tiny 4" to almost 18" now when he is fully open. <Nice!> That now brings me to my problem. When I got home last night, I noticed that he had begun to shrivel up. Upon further inspection it appears that he had ingested a reasonably large Trochus snail that may have fallen off the live rock, as I could see the last of the shell as it was being taken into his mouth. I didn't think there was any way to pull it without damaging the sebae, so I left it to take its course. <This is best at this point...> Today he is completely deflated, but I have seen him shift up and lay back down. My question is this, will he ultimately be able to purge the snail shell or is there something that I should try and do to help him out? <This animal may be able to push the shell out by itself... but if a bit of it large enough to grab shows itself... I would give it a gentle, steady pull and remove it myself> I know there is a third potential, but would rather not go down that path as my kids think of him as much of a pet as the couple of fish I have in the tank. Thanks -Rick <Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Sebae anemone, bleached, resurrected! I bought a sebae anemone 2 months ago that was beached white. I don't have a question I just want to tell you guys with all of the info I received from your site I was able to bring this anemone back. <Yay!> I fed it Mysis shrimp and kept it under my 250 watt metal halides and this anemone has doubled in size and is every sticky now ,but most important of all he is brown in color. I just want to say thank for the help! Keith c <Congratulations on your success. Bob Fenner>

Anemone ID- Possible H. crispa / E. Quadricolor / Health Issue  6/14/08 First off, I've learned so much from your site. <Good to hear! > Thank you for providing such a knowledgeable service. <You're welcome! > It's my first stop when I have a marine aquarium issue or question. I've tried to ID this anemone but have had little success. It was sold as a Sebae but looks nothing like the pictures of Sebae's that I've researched. So simply, can you ID this specimen? Picture attached. <It has some similar characteristics of both the Sebae and the E. quadricolor (BTA). How long have you had this anemone? What are you feeding and what sized portions? What are your water parameters? What equipment do you have, and what size tank. Im leaning more towards the Sebae here, but Im wondering if it is not stressed and/or possibly lacking nutrition. The color variations makes me wonder if this anemone was dyed, or if it was bleached and is now regaining its Zooxanthellae. > Thank you for any info. Karl <You're welcome! Brenda > Re: Anemone ID, Possible H. crispa / E. quadricolor / Health Issue 6/14/08 Thank you for the response Brenda. <You're welcome! > I know better, I should have provided more information. I've had the anemone for 2 weeks now. I took advice from the WWM site (concerning Sebae's) and feed it a portion of Silverside every other day no bigger than its mouth. Water parameters are almost perfect. NH3-0, No2-0, No3-5, Calcium 460, Phosphate 0, 9 DKH . SD-1.024 10% water change weekly. <Gradually bring the salinity up to 1.026 by topping off daily with pre-mixed saltwater. This is closer to the normal salinity of the ocean. > 55 gallon reef setup. Remora skimmer, wet/dry sump, 500 gph return, <Is there any other flow? A 500 gph may not be enough after you calculate head loss. > 265 watts of 65k and actinic. <Power compact lighting is border line at best for this anemone. I would consider an upgrade to T-5 or metal halide.> 60lbs LR and aragonite substrate. It had been moving around but looks like it has settled down in the substrate with good current. <Is likely a Sebae then, as the E. quadricolor typically does not settle into the substrate. > Purple Tipped anemone (very healthy!) <No, unfortunately, it is not healthy, but it can be saved with some effort.> Coral beauty Maroon Clown Algae Blenny Cleaner Shrimp Many snails and blue leg hermits. <Be careful with the shrimp and crabs. Crabs can become predators, and shrimp can remove food from inside the anemone several hours after feeding.> I tend to agree with you, I think it was bleached and is regaining Zooxanthellae. <This unfortunately is not uncommon. Collection and shipping is very tough on anemones. Because this anemone is stressed, I recommend feeding about 1/3 of what you are feeding now, but feed daily until the anemone improves. Soaking the Silversides in Selcon will also help. Ideally you want to see longer tentacles, and some color. A white anemone is not a healthy anemone.> There you have it. Thanks again for any info. <You're welcome! Let me know if you need any further assistance. Brenda > Karl

H. crispa Health . . . perhaps too late 4-2-08 Good day to all of you at WWM, how are you? <<I cant speak for everyone but my status is up to par.>> I have a friend that bought an Sebae anemone a few weeks ago and did no research on the species before he bought it. <<Unfortunate.>> He had way to small of a tank and not nearly enough lighting, and on top of that the species was already bleached. <<Not a good combination.>> After I saw it I told him that it was soon to die. <<Not an exaggeration on your part.>> He asked me to take it home to see if I could nurture it back to health, I reluctantly accepted knowing that his 2 CF bulbs over a 30g breeder was not enough for it in this state. <<Judging by your desire description it will be difficult to save this specimen even in ideal settings..healthy specimens have difficulty adapting to captive life for that matter.>> With that said, it is really not doing well at all and I would like to know if there is any chance of survival at this point, and what is the best route. <<See here; http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/heteraccrispa.htm  .>> My tank, 72g with 30g sump growing Chaeto, also live rock chamber and protein skimmer. Lighting is 2x250w MH 14k's, 4x54w T5's 2 10k 2 actinic. <<Is there a lot of surface area? Other Cnidarian life?>> I have had experience in keeping anemones before and currently have two larger RBTAs, I have also cared for three previous bleached BTAs with much success. But this specimen is new to me and more than that it is looking really bad. <<And if those other anemones are in the same system, they are all in danger, if the Sebae is in such bad health I would not risk the health of your other specimens.>> So on with the anemone, when I put it in the tank three days ago it did not want to attach, but at the same time it did not attach for the entire time my buddy had it. <<Not a good sign.>> So I put it in a spot with somewhat minimal flow as to not let it get blown around and it also had a little bit of shade. Well he found his way to the middle of an open spot of sand near the glass over the next couple of hours and buried his foot. I thought this to be a good sign. He also eat fairly well the first night and a few hours later looked like he was disgorging the waste. I then woke up this morning to him with his mouth almost completely inverted! expelling possible organs. There is no whole you can see straight through but this is obviously not good. In almost ten hours it has not gone down at all or closed at all. I have attached a picture to help. Just looking to see if there is any hope? <<Well hope is an abstract idea I don't completely understand so Ill talk logic. Statistically speaking you aren't looking at a successful arrangement. As cold as it may seem you may want to remove the Sebae before you place your other livestock at harm. I would say your first responsibility is to the animals which have the best chance at survival, don't compromise their health. Give the above link to your friend as well. Good luck, Adam J.>>

Unhealthy White Sebae Anemone, Expelled Zooxanthellae  2/20/08 Hello, <Hello Josh!> I am new to marine fish keeping (4 1/2 months) and have gotten my water quality to the point where I can now house corals in my tank. I have just a small 24 gallon nano-cube, 35 lbs live rock, 30 lbs live sand, protein skimmer, power compacts for lighting. Livestock: Percula clown, possum wrasse, coral beauty, and a brand new diamond watchman goby (to keep my sand looking nice and fresh). My fish are all rather small and don't seem to make much of an impact on my water quality since I perform water changes religiously. <Great!> My problem is that I recently purchased an all-white Sebae anemone. <Yikes!> He looked brilliant in the store, but shortly after I acclimated him to the tank (24-48hrs) he began to shrivel up, and has stayed that way for two days now... is he doing this because he is unhealthy or is he just possibly still adjusting to the water in my tank? <This anemone was unhealthy when you purchased it. A white anemone is an unhealthy anemone. When they are white, they have expelled their Zooxanthellae. Zooxanthellae is an algae that lives inside them and is needed for their long term survival.> I took a sample of water to the store before I purchased the anemone, and the clerk told me that my water quality was better than any of the tanks in the store. If he is unhealthy and starting to die, when should I get him out of the tank? <I would return the anemone to the place you purchased it or find someone local that is experienced with the recovery of anemones. A 4 month old, 24 gallon tank with PC lighting is not adequate for this anemone.> I have a business trip coming up in a few days where I will be away for almost a week... I really do not want to come home to disaster in my aquarium. My girlfriend can check on the tank while I am gone but she is not familiar with this at all... <Its time to find it a new home now. This anemone is going to continue to deteriorate in its current environment.> Thank you so much for your help. Josh <You're welcome! Brenda>
Re: Unhealthy White Sebae Anemone, Expelled Zooxanthellae  2/20/08 Thank You for the advice Brenda, <You're welcome!> I just returned from the store where I purchased it. They are willing to let me bring the anemone in and keep it for me until I return from my business trip. I purchased a very healthy looking bubble coral today that should take its place nicely... If I return from the trip and the anemone is looking healthy again, would it be a poor decision to bring it back home? <This anemone will not be healthy again any time soon. Recovering a bleached anemone takes months, and a lot of dedication. I don't recommend it.> Thanks again! Josh <You're welcome! Brenda>